Manish YadavA DIY Wooden Tool Box is a must-have item for any household, and it comes with a slew of advantages. Even if you’re not a mechanic or a woodworker, you can appreciate the value of the box. That’s one of the many reasons why there are so many DIY Wooden Tool Box hacks available online.
However, not all of the suggestions are feasible. Based on your requirement, we devised plausible plans to meet the demand. Take a peek at the handmade toolbox for some basic, inexpensive, and effective suggestions.
Step One:-
Choose boards that are in good condition. You may need to sift through the pile to find a decent board free of major knots (little ones are fine, they add character). Take care in shipment if you want lovely, crisp edges.
Step Two:-
Decide on the size of your DIY Wooden Tool Box. I opted to make the inner length of my box 36″ to accommodate longer equipment such as a handsaw, level, and so on. To ensure the tools would fit in the toolbox, I laid them out.
Step Three:-
Check to see if your lumber is square. Because not every lumber has square ends, any imperfections may show up throughout assembly. Mark a new line an inch or so from the board’s ends with a t-square and trim off. You are not required to do so, but it is a good habit to develop, especially when you witness what occurs when you are fitting your last board and discover a 1/8″ gap where there should not be.
Step Four:-
Cut and measure your parts. The box’s internal measurements were 36 inches. Because the end pieces will be capped at the bottom and sides of the box, I cut them all at 36″. Two pieces of 16 and a single piece of 10 are required. Cut them out after marking them with your square.
Step Five:-
Create and cut your final parts. Mark the location 6 1/4″ from the bottom of your 110 on both sides of the board.
Step Six:-
- Connect the bottom board to the end pieces. You want to make sure you’re screwing into the center of the bottom board because your boards are 3/4″ thick. Take a 3/8″ measurement and make a mark. Mark a line across the bottom of the sidepiece with a combination square.
- I spaced out five screws along the bottom, one in the center and the others evenly spaced apart—drill holes for your screws with a drill and a countersink. Place your screws in the holes and tighten them until the points of the screws protrude through the end piece.
- Apply wood glue to the bottom board’s end. To set them, align the bottom with the end piece and tap with a hammer. Install the middle screw and double-check that everything is still in place. Some squeezing is beneficial.
- The bottom and end pieces should form a 90-degree angle. Rep with the other end piece.
Step Seven:-
- Join the side pieces together. Dry fit the pieces in their final positions and trim as needed. The end pieces should not be forced out of square but fit snugly. Place glue around the edges of the side piece facing both the bottom and end pieces after snug and square.
- Using the same method as before, measure 3/8″ from the edge of the end piece to ensure that the screws go as close to the center of the side pieces as possible.
- On the end pieces, drill and countersink a few holes. Drive the screws into the side pieces after double-checking that everything is in place.
Step Eight:-
- Fix the dowel in place. Through the two end pieces, insert the dowel. The dowel should align the end parts with the bottom piece. One end of the dowel should be flat against the end piece. Make sure both ends of the dowel are square, then indicate where you’ll cut it on the outside. Note that the dowel should be 1 1/2″ longer than the side of your bottom board. Insert the dowel that has been cut into the end pieces. Slide the dowel to one side and dab a little glue inside the hole, then do the same with the other side.
- On each side, drill and countersink one hole in the top of the end piece. One screw should be driven into both the end piece and the dowel. It will never move because of the glue and the screw.
Step Nine:-
All left to do now is connect the bottom and side parts. The amount of screws you use is proportional to the toolbox’s length. Using the same method, measure 3/8′′ from the edge using your square. Every 6 to 8 inches, drill and countersink a hole. I wasn’t exact because it doesn’t matter to me, but if you want to be, go ahead. Keep an eye out for the right squeeze out.
Step Ten:-
Side edges should be relieved. This isn’t essential, but I enjoy doing it. A sharp block plane can be used to remove an unsightly corner that will readily ding up.
Step Eleven:-
Hand sand the outer surfaces using 120-grit sandpaper. If you’re very picky, you can fill the screw holes with wood putty or wood plugs, but because this is a “back of the truck” toolbox, I didn’t bother.
Finishing the box is another possibility. It didn’t matter to me because we weren’t sitting in the rain. I did elect to use a Danish oil finish that penetrates the wood on the outside, but that is entirely optional. If I were presenting this as a gift, I’d probably seal it in some way.
If you want the wood to show through, use varnish; if you want something a little more vibrant, use your preferred colour paint. In either case, it will have a beautiful color in 30 years.
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